A spellbinding journey to another time in an unspoilt corner of the Turquoise Coast

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It was 7.30am as I meandered around the Turkish fishing village of Ucagiz. The run of crooked back streets behind the harbour was still mouse-quiet. Sacks of carob beans slumped like drunks against shop doorways. Cats snoozed on window ledges, next to olive oil cans stuffed with geraniums. Chickens in ramshackle enclosures pecked idly at the remnants of yesterday’s grain. The carpet door-curtains of the little stone houses beside them were firmly closed, the elderly inhabitants still fast asleep.

On the waterfront, it was a different story. As the main village in the Bay of Kekova, one of the prettiest strips of coastline in southwest Turkey, Ucagiz is a popular stopover for passing boats.

Its…

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